How to catalog a vinyl record collection
Two copies of the same album can look identical on the shelf and still be different records: another country, another pressing plant, another cut of the lacquer. A good vinyl catalog captures what tells them apart, plus the condition of the record and its sleeve. Here is what to write down and how to grade it.
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Why catalog your records
Record collections grow quickly, and at a certain size memory stops working. A catalog lets you check for duplicates at a record fair, find the right crate without flipping through all of them, and see which pressing you actually own when someone offers to trade.
Pressing details matter because collectors and price guides treat each pressing as its own item. A first pressing and a later reissue of the same album can differ a lot in sound and value, and the only reliable way to tell them apart is by codes printed on the jacket and label and etched into the vinyl.
For choosing categories and storage locations across a whole collection, see our general guide to cataloging a collection. This guide covers the fields specific to records.
Catalog number, label and barcode
The catalog number is the label’s own code for a release. It usually appears on the spine, the back cover and the center label. Discogs suggests checking both the front cover and spine, and notes that the back cover may show a different catalog number. Record the label name with it, since catalog numbers are only unique within a label.
Later releases often carry a barcode, and many European records include label codes or rights society codes that US releases usually do not. Write down whatever is printed. Each extra detail narrows down which release you have.
Matrix and runout: identifying the pressing
The runout, also called the dead wax or matrix area, is the smooth band between the last groove and the label. During mastering, codes are etched or stamped there, and they carry through to every copy pressed from those parts. Discogs recommends inspecting the runout to work out which pressing you have, because some information appears nowhere else.
- Matrix number: the main code for each side, often with a side suffix such as -1, -2, A or B
- Lacquer or stamper marks: small codes such as A1 or 1A; lower numbers often mean an earlier cut
- Mastering engineer marks: initials or stamps identifying who cut the lacquer
- Pressing plant marks: letters or symbols that identify the factory
How to identify a pressing, step by step
Read the runout under a single angled light. A zoomed phone photo often makes faint etching easier to read and gives you a record of it too.
Start with the obvious
Artist, title, label, catalog number and country, from the jacket and label.
Copy the runout exactly
Write each side’s full string, with spaces where there are gaps, as Discogs asks contributors to do.
Compare with a database
Discogs lists many versions of popular albums. Match label, country, year and the runout strings to find the exact release.
Note what does not match
If your copy differs from every listed version, write down the differences. You may have a variant.
Grading vinyl and sleeves with the Goldmine scale
Most dealers and marketplaces use the Goldmine standard, and Discogs uses the same grade names. Grade the record and the sleeve separately, for example VG+ / VG, because they age differently. Grading combines a visual check with listening, and dealers often disagree by a grade, so describe the specific flaws too.
Mint (M)
Perfect, likely never played and often still sealed. Many dealers rarely or never use it.
Near Mint (NM or M-)
Nearly perfect with no obvious wear. Many dealers will not grade higher than this.
Very Good Plus (VG+)
Light signs of handling, such as slight scuffs or very light scratches that do not affect listening.
Very Good (VG)
Surface noise you can hear, especially in quiet passages, with noticeable groove wear. Labels may have writing or stickers.
Good (G) and Good Plus (G+)
Plays through without skipping, but with significant noise and wear.
Poor (P) or Fair (F)
Cracked, badly warped, or skips and repeats.
Sleeve and jacket condition
For jackets, note ring wear, seam splits, writing, stickers, cut corners or drill holes, and water damage. Record inserts such as lyric sleeves, posters and original inner sleeves, since a complete copy is worth more to collectors. Keep a short notes field for these rather than squeezing them into the grade.
For storage, keep records upright rather than stacked, away from heat and direct sunlight, and consider anti-static inner sleeves and clear outer sleeves to protect the jackets.
Fields to record for each record
Write these down for every record. Not every field applies to every release, but leaving a blank is better than guessing.
- Artist and title
- Label and catalog number
- Country and year of this pressing
- Format: LP, 12-inch single, 7-inch, 10-inch; speed; number of discs
- Matrix / runout for side A and side B
- Media grade and sleeve grade (as dropdowns)
- Pressing notes: first press, reissue, colored vinyl, promo
- Purchase price, date and where you bought it
- Storage location, such as Living room / Record shelf / Cube 12
How Allventory fits a record collection
Allventory’s standard Movies, music & video games category already includes fields such as Creator / studio / artist, Format, Release year, Edition / region and Catalog number / barcode. You can add attributes to it or create a Vinyl records category with exactly the fields you need.
Grades as dropdowns
Add Media grade and Sleeve grade as dropdown attributes with the Goldmine grades as options, so every record uses the same values. Add text attributes for Matrix side A and Matrix side B, a number for Discs, and yes or no for First pressing.
A crate in one photo
Spread out a few records and photograph them together. Allventory suggests a separate item for each, with names, categories and estimated values to review before saving. Estimated values are AI suggestions, not appraisals.
Shelves as locations
Name locations as paths, such as Living room / Record shelf / Cube 12, and filter the list by location to see what is in one cube.
Photos of the details
Attach photos of the label and the runout, plus receipts, up to 20 files per item.
Tags for status
Use tags such as Duplicate, For trade or Wantlist upgrade and apply them to many records at once.
Price research
On an item’s Sell tab, search its saved photo with Google Lens to look for comparable listings. Results may show advertised prices, so check sold prices for the exact pressing before you set a price.
Questions people ask
How do I know which pressing of a record I have?
Compare the label, catalog number, country and the matrix codes in the runout with a database such as Discogs. The runout etchings are usually what separates one pressing from another.
What is the difference between VG+ and NM?
Near Mint looks and plays nearly perfect with no obvious wear. VG+ shows light handling, such as slight scuffs or light scratches, that does not affect listening.
Where is the catalog number on a vinyl record?
Usually on the spine, the back cover and the center label. Some releases print different numbers in different places, so record what each one shows.
Should I grade the record and the sleeve separately?
Yes. The standard way is to give the media and the sleeve their own grades, such as VG+ / VG, and note specific flaws like ring wear or seam splits.